Nyitra I

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cyberbadger
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Re: Nyitra I

Post by cyberbadger » Fri Oct 04, 2019 1:30 am

Update Oct 3:

Filled the hydraulic lines and tried the steering, I am very impressed with Hydrodrive. $350 for a hydraulic outboard system that is easily adapted to a rudder.

We steamed up in my friends pond today and gave it a test. We could almost keep going in a circle continuously in his pond. :)

-CB
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cyberbadger
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Re: Nyitra I

Post by cyberbadger » Sat Oct 12, 2019 4:07 pm

Amongst the upgrades and repairs I'm working on I turned a brass handle free hand on my lathe for the reversing lever, drilled&tapped.

Then I buffed the heck out of it. I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

Image

-CB
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TahoeSteam
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Re: Nyitra I

Post by TahoeSteam » Sun Oct 13, 2019 4:26 pm

That's a nice brass handle. What did you have in there before?
Do you dry or superheat your steam at all?
~Wesley Harcourt~
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cyberbadger
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Re: Nyitra I

Post by cyberbadger » Mon Oct 14, 2019 1:31 am

TahoeSteam wrote:
Sun Oct 13, 2019 4:26 pm
That's a nice brass handle. What did you have in there before?
Do you dry or superheat your steam at all?
It didn't come with anthing but a 3/8"-16 hex bolt with a groove cut in so it could be welded to what was originally some mild steel bar stock that comprises the reversing lever- so basically a little 3/8"-16 stud.

She was a originally a car engine, and she didn't come to me that way. In the ~1960s a gentleman steamer had taken this Toledo and prepared it for use as a spare engine for his steam launch. The connections that were relevant to a car where removed and made more generic for a steam launch. He passed away before he needed it, and the man I bought it from had her stored inside in a heated indoor environment for 40years. It came to me as a crated launch engine. (eBay buy, make sure to search for local-pick only stuff if it's rare like a steam engine, and then negotiate with the seller to pay for crating and shipping.)

I had made a wood handle, but it fell apart in the outside environment Nyitra is stored.

This brass one is great, but I get nervous having too much shiny brass aboard because someone might see it and desire the brass for scrap... (Traction Engine folks have had this problem, even in locked barns...)
--

Well my MAWP is 200PSI. I am blessed with experiencing the huge change that happens between 150PSI going to 200PSI. The steam becomes more or less dry, and the power goes through the roof. It also is a very odd phenomenon because going from 50-150psi seems to takes a lot of effort fueling with wood. Once you get to 150PSI it takes off to 200psi much quicker because the puffer gets more blow-by. - like a turbo spooling up on a d_i_e_s_e_l.

Also, if it's wavy carry-over can becomes more of a problem with such a high center of gravity, so what I do is run the water level maybe 50% of the Glass, and make that the set point with the fireman. Keeping the water-glass near 50% combats carry-over but it also makes drier steam - especially above 150psi.

It starts to get complicated with multiple fuels. the propane flame is going fast enough through the boiler, so I don't plan on doing a puffer arrangement while running propane.

Also for efficiency, and because it was done - Nyitra now has an Auxilliary Sail.

However, I will not run my aux sail when we are firing with solid fuels - because that is how many steamboats ended up sinking... :)

-CB/Andy
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Re: Nyitra I

Post by cyberbadger » Tue Oct 22, 2019 6:31 pm

To prevent further involuntary stack contributions to Lake Chautauqua a new SS 5ft (2ft taller then previous) smoke stack and modifications to the bonnet were completed.

My first time with weld nuts. I like them a lot, however I'm guessing because of the rough environment this maybe a permanent mating between the stack and bonnet.

4 1/4"-20 weldnuts were welded to the bonnet with oxy/acetylene welding, then grinding, sanding, painting. 1/4"-20 grade 8 bolts were used, and some ss acorn nuts to finish it off.
ssstack.jpg
ssstack.jpg (119.14 KiB) Viewed 232 times
I'm not painting the stainless steel, at least initially . I want to see how the thermal gradient looks as the steel will change specific colours that correlate to fairly specific temperatures.

Faint-yellow – 176 °C (349 °F)
Light-straw – 205 °C (401 °F)
Dark-straw – 226 °C (439 °F)
Brown – 260 °C (500 °F)
Purple – 282 °C (540 °F)
Dark blue – 310 °C (590 °F)
Light blue – 337 °C (639 °F)
Grey-blue – 371 °C (700 °F) and higher

excerpt from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_(metallurgy)

-CB
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