Ray HasBrouck engine plans
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Re: Ray HasBrouck engine plans
Some years ago I discussed with Ray building a 2.25 x 4.5 x 3 compound from Ray'
s #10 as the base. I never persued it, but I know one person who is currently building it and doing a fine job.
He may pipe up........but I'll let him decide....
Dave
s #10 as the base. I never persued it, but I know one person who is currently building it and doing a fine job.
He may pipe up........but I'll let him decide....
Dave
Re: Ray HasBrouck engine plans
I was actually looking at his #1 the other day and wondering how hard it would be to build a double simple using two #1's interlinked.mcandrew1894 wrote:Some years ago I discussed with Ray building a 2.25 x 4.5 x 3 compound from Ray'
s #10 as the base. I never persued it, but I know one person who is currently building it and doing a fine job.
He may pipe up........but I'll let him decide....
Dave
Also, I was wondering if simply increasing the bore by going with a slightly larger cylinder liner (3" instead of 2.25") would make any noticeable improvement in HP.
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Re: Ray HasBrouck engine plans
By about 75% - 2.25" = surface area of 3.97sq.in., 3" + surface area of 7.06sq.in. 'Course the steam consumption will increase proportionally alsoWearyman wrote: ...I was actually looking at his #1 the other day and wondering how hard it would be to build a double simple using two #1's interlinked.
Also, I was wondering if simply increasing the bore by going with a slightly larger cylinder liner (3" instead of 2.25") would make any noticeable improvement in HP.
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Re: Ray HasBrouck engine plans
"Unfortunately, between work and family, I rarely have time for much in the evenings, let alone school"
In my case, using the class at the local Vocational-Technical school saves time and money. You enroll in the class, the machine shop instructor lets you build anything you want, and provides guidance on how to operate the machine tools. You get all of this for the price of the course, much less than the cost of even one machine tool. You go to class when you can, no penalty for skipping classes, except maybe a poor report card.
I did this for several years, until I was able to buy my lathes (5 and counting) milling machines (two presently), stick, MIG, TIG and Oxy-Acetylene welding outfits, power saws, band saw, grinders etc.
I also have a full complement of woodworking tools, and in my opinion, working with wood is very much easier than working in metal.
In my case, using the class at the local Vocational-Technical school saves time and money. You enroll in the class, the machine shop instructor lets you build anything you want, and provides guidance on how to operate the machine tools. You get all of this for the price of the course, much less than the cost of even one machine tool. You go to class when you can, no penalty for skipping classes, except maybe a poor report card.
I did this for several years, until I was able to buy my lathes (5 and counting) milling machines (two presently), stick, MIG, TIG and Oxy-Acetylene welding outfits, power saws, band saw, grinders etc.
I also have a full complement of woodworking tools, and in my opinion, working with wood is very much easier than working in metal.
- fredrosse
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Re: Ray HasBrouck engine plans
As a rough rule of thumb, a well streamlined hull (a good launch hull) can get close to "hull speed" with a little more than one horsepower per ton of displacement. "Hull speed", in Knots, is equal to 1.3 x the square root of the hull waterline length. This speed is about the practical limit for displacement hulls as typically found on steamboats. You can get about 1.0 x the square root of the hull waterline length with 1/2 horsepower per ton of displacement.
Having said that, some extra power available is probably prudent, for rough water, windy conditions, etc.
I am currently building a 20 ft launch, with a 3/4 ton loaded displacement, and 1 hp engine. This boat will only be used in sheltered waters.
Having said that, some extra power available is probably prudent, for rough water, windy conditions, etc.
I am currently building a 20 ft launch, with a 3/4 ton loaded displacement, and 1 hp engine. This boat will only be used in sheltered waters.
Re: Ray HasBrouck engine plans
Just thought I would note that Ray's plans are again available for purchase through his website.
Hasbrouck Engines
So if you were thinking about picking up a copy of his engine plans, now is the time to do it!
They are a bit more expensive than they were, but that's mostly because Ray sold them at a loss. He just wanted to help the steam community. Ray's friend who is now holding the plans and running the site needs to break even on them, so they are a bit more. But they are still a STEAL at less than $30.00 each.
I've already ordered the #1 and #5 plans myself.
Hasbrouck Engines
So if you were thinking about picking up a copy of his engine plans, now is the time to do it!
They are a bit more expensive than they were, but that's mostly because Ray sold them at a loss. He just wanted to help the steam community. Ray's friend who is now holding the plans and running the site needs to break even on them, so they are a bit more. But they are still a STEAL at less than $30.00 each.
I've already ordered the #1 and #5 plans myself.
- DetroiTug
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Re: Ray HasBrouck engine plans
I bought and still have the set of plans for the #1 engine, back in about 1982. That was the only full size marine engine he had then. Never did build it. They were ordered out of the back of a magazine, can't remember which one, probably Popular Mechanics. They were $7.50 USF if I remember correctly. We mailed back and forth a few times, he seemed like a nice guy.
-Ron
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Re: Ray HasBrouck engine plans
Hi
Just had a chance to follow this thread and though I would offer my observations.
Your chosen Hasbrouck engine seems pretty similar in capacity to the Stuart Turner Swan engine. That particular engine is quite widely used and runs boats up to 22ft (e.g. the Beckmann Compromise 22).
Like you, a pen-pusher by trade, it seemed sensible to skip the maching bit. I do have some lathe skills, but recognise that I would never have the patience to build the engine and then the boat and then fit it out...
I have taken a shorter path with a Beckmann Rose hull and an engine from one of the more enthusiastic engine builders in England. The aim was to have the fitting out done in a year and get afloat quickly. We are now in year two and it is still not finished! However I can see the end of the project.
You will need you lathe skills for the pumps - water pumps and vacuum pumps are not always provided with engines.
So, that might be a route to get afloat before you are too old to enjoy it.
Regards
Pete
Just had a chance to follow this thread and though I would offer my observations.
Your chosen Hasbrouck engine seems pretty similar in capacity to the Stuart Turner Swan engine. That particular engine is quite widely used and runs boats up to 22ft (e.g. the Beckmann Compromise 22).
Like you, a pen-pusher by trade, it seemed sensible to skip the maching bit. I do have some lathe skills, but recognise that I would never have the patience to build the engine and then the boat and then fit it out...
I have taken a shorter path with a Beckmann Rose hull and an engine from one of the more enthusiastic engine builders in England. The aim was to have the fitting out done in a year and get afloat quickly. We are now in year two and it is still not finished! However I can see the end of the project.
You will need you lathe skills for the pumps - water pumps and vacuum pumps are not always provided with engines.
So, that might be a route to get afloat before you are too old to enjoy it.
Regards
Pete