The Steamboating Forum

I have eventually got round to clearing the decks and grinding the slide-bars. As suspected, I beat the tolerance of the manufactured material with exact size, i.e. NO tolerance at all!
Their size was no better than (quoted) 0/+0.002" thickness x 0/+0.008" width.

Just wondering whether to heat treat them or leave them raw.

Ok, Ok, no need to all cheer at once,

Yes, I've actually cleared my feet of other things, and had a couple of hours on this. Actually I'm awaiting delivery of some items for another project and needed a diversion, so I took another look at the con-rods and in particular the small-ends. After careful measuring I decided the slots so carefully cut before, were not deep enough by about 3mm so I reset them in the mill and cut them deeper.
It did at least bring on further thoughts of what comes next and when the other project is completed, you never know . . . .!

Having made the blanks for the cyl. glands some time back I thought it time to finish them off, now the other project is complete.

A cross-line was marked in the lathe, and the centres marked with a vernier. Marking out completed, the shape cut on the mill.


Corners dressed off with a file, job jobbed.


No biggie, just another step, and a quiet afternoon in the workshop. The small-end yolks are next for rounding, having been cross-drilled and pins made to fit.

Nice. I like those type glands, much easier to adjust and secure.

Ron

It seems that 'catch up' is the best game in town. A little job that has been hanging fire for some time was to drill the fixing holes in the bottom covers. Normally reasonably simple with the DRO, except it decided to throw a 'wobbly' and refuse input, and then refuse to follow sequence. It is 18 years old, and Chinese, should I be thinking of a new one? Perhaps I should just use it more often?

However, I eventually showed it who is Boss (Not with a 2lb hammer, though sorely tempted!) and managed to drill the required holes, and in the required places, 5 for each cover, Less than the number in the top covers (8off) because these will not be seen in service.

Most likely just contaminated resolvers/scales. Should be able to get in past the seals with a Qtip and some alcohol. That will usually get them reading correctly again. Any shop haze on the glass will cause them to lose steps, it blocks the IR beam.

Yes I catch that, but this was when all was stationary so readings shouldn't have been an issue. As I suggested, more likely fumble-fingers, but still very annoying!

I have since priced a new head unit and they are getting an awful lot cheaper than this one was. 2 axis from about £130 ($160), 3 axis proportionately more but still not silly. Perhaps worth upgrading as well as changing? Only one more scale to fix.

I knew they were coming down in price, that's quite a bit, does that include the scales?

I remember when that was a large expense, around 2000 for 2 axis. Anyways, the alcohol works good whether as a cleaning agent or ingested, if it's drank, who cares where the holes are.

Scales are extra. It depends a bit on length, and type, but around $90 (£75) each.

I had a day off today. Too much domesticity around!

Depends the type of alcohol. All of it that I use for electronic cleaning is flat out lethal to drink and methyl is even dangerous to breath. I know. I burn it in my Jawa race bike.

Mike