Safety Protocol / Shut down Procedures

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cyberbadger
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Re: Safety Protocol / Shut down Procedures

Post by cyberbadger »

Lopez Mike wrote:Ah, you've been reading Atul Gawande. Check lists are good.
No I haven't been reading Atul Gawande. Just read a blurb somewhere before.
Lopez Mike wrote:All dealt with automatically by a check list if only a mental one.
Mental checklists are often inaccurate. A physical walk around and touch this and that is much more accurate. An actual checklist is of course the best.

I was going to buy an industrial boiler logbook, but there is too much that doesn't really apply to my situation... :)
Lopez Mike wrote:I'm still not there with the launch. The worst things for me have been the shut off valves at the boiler for the feed water pumps. Both when starting up and when shutting down. I have a relief valve for the engine driven pump so I get reminded right away when I take off and water squirts out. But when I shut down and find the next day that the water is off the top of the glass and the hot well is empty, that's when the palm hits the forehead. Sigh.
I'm hoping to be there in the next year or so (I'm not going to be running condensing), but I'm sure I will have my own launch troubles.....
That's the fun part, at least in my book.

-CB
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fredrosse
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Re: Safety Protocol / Shut down Procedures

Post by fredrosse »

"when I shut down and find the next day that the water is off the top of the glass and the hot well is empty, that's when the palm hits the forehead. Sigh."

Sigh?? that is exactly what I want to happen on a shutdown, vacuum forms in the unfired boiler and sucks thru the feed pumps and fills the boiler entirely full, so air will not get into the boiler when not steaming. Next startup, fire the boiler, bottom blow to get rid of some mud, then dump the hot water back into the feedwater tank.
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Lopez Mike
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Re: Safety Protocol / Shut down Procedures

Post by Lopez Mike »

Make sense, of course. Except that most of the time I'm shutting down just for the night in which case I don't want to mess around with anything much the next morning. Also I don't have anything plumbed to get the water back into the hot well. If I get the glass too high all I can do now is make sure the float is bypassing and run the engine.

The other case is when I'm shutting down for a long time (like over the Winter with possible freezing!) in which case I wait until the fire is down to coals and blow down all the way. Currently my various shut off valves seem to be able to hold a weak vacuum for months.

There are times when I wish I lived in a climate where freezing wasn't an issue. I could leave the beast full of high pH., low oxygen water.

Of course I think of this when I'm lazing about on the beach or motorcycle riding during the five months a year I spend in Baja. Cough.
If you think you are too small to make a difference, try sleeping with a mosquito.
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Dhutch
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Re: Safety Protocol / Shut down Procedures

Post by Dhutch »

Been there, with the whole hot-well in the boiler game!

If I am leaving the boiler for a few weeks, I ensure it is all sealed up airtight at whatever level it came to rest at after a blow down, no air inside. If going the following day, I normally isolate it all off and suck in the hotwell to bring it as high in the gauge as I want just after lighting up. If it leave one of the feed water cocks open, I get an empty hotwell at 4am in the morning and the sound of it gulping air! Your hotwells must be bigger, or your boilers smaller.

Back to the topic of hotshut down, I went a fair way to drafting a copy for the boat in my lunch hour to day, about a side of A4 split into around 6 short sections. It should stand up on its own, but I expect this will then be followed with photos showing the relevant valves to add clarity. Dont have it with me but might post it tomorrow.


Daniel
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Re: Safety Protocol / Shut down Procedures

Post by Dhutch »

Dhutch wrote: Dont have it with me but might post it tomorrow.
This is the draft I have recently written.

###

In the invent of incident, the following guide should allow the safe shutdown of the steam plant without prior knowledge of the installation.

1. To suppress and extinguish the fire.
- Immediately close the primary air by sliding the square door shut at the base of the boiler, ensuring the rotary vent in the door is also shut and airtight.
- Close the second air by sliding the vent in the firebox door closed, ensuring the firebox door is also securely closed and air tight.
- In none emergency conditions where time allows, the primary air should be left 1cm open for 2 minutes, before being fully closed.
- In all normal conditions this will extinguish the fire before sufficient water is lost and a critical water level reached.
- No attempt should be made to extinguish the fire using water introduced via the fire door or funnel.

2. To check for a safe water level.
- Steam, and hence water, is released via the safety valves to maintain a safe boiler pressure when steam consumption is unexpectedly reduced by stopping.
- If the water level is visible anywhere within the nearest and smaller sight glass, the water level is within safe limits.
- If the water level is below this, it will most likely be visible within the larger sight glass around the back of the boiler, which shows a red line at the minimum safe level.
- Should water level be in danger of falling below red line on the larger/lower sight glass water should be added with urgency.
- Briefly opening the quarter turn lower (drain) valve of either site glass will eject the glass contents and on closing water will return to the level within the boiler.
- In the event of the water level not be found in either glass, due to significant water loss, the boat should be evacuated and an exclusion zone be put in place around the area.

3. Using/reducing steam
- Steam pressure will not exceed safe levels due to release via the safety valves, however running the engine and propeller can be used to help maintain a safe water level.
- If it is safe to do so the engine can be started and run using the normal controls as previously used, with boat tethered, moored, or moving, and will consume steam in place of the safety valves.
- The further the control valve is opened the faster the engine will run, it can be run at any speed assuming the boat is well secured. The engine cannot be run without the propeller operating.
- Alternatively, the engine room by-pass valve can be used in place of the normal controls. This is the red valve on the pipes leading vertically from the engine.
- The engine driven pumps should then return the used steam to the boiler, maintaining a safe water level within the boiler. See above 'checking for a safe water level'.
- If the engine has been standing for a significant period it may be too cold to start. Operating the reverse lever may cure this, else the cylinder drain cocks can be used to expel condensate.

4. Adding water to the boiler
- If water is low, water can be added to the boiler using the injectors if you are familiar with the operation of steam injectors.
- Alternatively, water can be pumped into the boiler using the manual foot pump on the floor between the engine and boiler.
- If the pump will not depress, the isolation valve between the pump and boiler must be opened to allow the flow of water.
- This has a red handle and can be found by tracing the pipework from the pump to the boiler, open by turning anti-clockwise 4-6 turns.
- Water is drawn from the 'hotwell, the tank on the wall behind pump, the level will drop if pumping is successful, and can be maintained using the 'garden tap' above the tank.
- If for some reason the tap will not maintain the water, water can be added to the tank manually from the canal or river using any suitable container.
- Water can also be added to the hotwell while the engine is running, which will slowly, become introduced into the boiler.

5. Closing down the boiler.
- To isolate the boiler before leaving, each valve should be closed fully by turning clockwise until significant resistance is felt.
- There are four valves on the top of the boiler feeding the engine, whistle, injectors, and domestic hot water cylinder.
- There are two valves lower down, one from the engine driven boiler feed pump, and one from the manual foot pump and injectors.
- The boilers two safety valves cannot be isolated, and the blow-down valve at the rear of the boiler will be shut.
- If water is at a safe level, and the fire is low enough that steam production has ceased and is no longer raising the pressure, safety valves closed, the boiler can be left safely.

6. Closing down the engine.
- The inherent risk from the engine is far less than that of the boiler. The only item that should be closed is the raw water feed to the cooling pump.
- This is the valve mounted to 'mudbox' or grey steel box behind the engine, with a rubber hose on the smaller of the two pumps. It takes around 15 full turns clockwise to close.
- Combined with the closing of the steam supply valve on the boiler (see 'closing down the boiler') the engine is safe to be left.

###

The intention was to pitch it at a level which allows semi-competent operators to do something sensible even if nervous or under pressure, while also allowing novices to do the bear minimum to keep it safe, without the word count getting silly, trying to include all conditions the plant may be in at the start of the process, and to foresee the majority of opportunity for it to not go as expected and hence maintain robustness. Prioritising safely, but also not totally excluding maintaining the plant and crafts integrity.

Assumptions made include the incident happening while the boat is moving or shortly after it, and that the majority of systems including the sight glasses are working, as I think its far less likely for the incident to happen during the lighting period, and highly unlikely that the sight glassed will fail during the incident. I have tried to make descriptions as clear to a novice as I can to within reason, while also including the technical terms on the expectation that between the remaining crew its likely there will be an amount of potted knowledge, such as knowing how to turn on the hot water to heater, or knowing what a mudbox is from non-steam boat experience.

The boiler is a vertical fire tube boiler, 200psi working pressure, 600lb/hour and around 3ft dia 3ft height with wet legs, the red line is a inch above the crown (lower tube plate), located in an engine room alongside the boiler, access from the side via a passageway through the room. Main engine controls (regulator and reverser) are in the wheelhouse.

I would be very interested in feedback on the above and any areas people feel I may have missed the mark.


Daniel
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Re: Safety Protocol / Shut down Procedures

Post by PeteThePen1 »

Hi Folks

I came across the listing below in Funnel Issue 38 (pp 50-51). The author was Pat Weiland.
It looks a good generic checklist that can be tailored to the specifics of one's own steam launch.

"PREPARATION
HULL
1. Visual damage check.
2. Warps, anchor, lock windlass, first aid kit, fire extinguishers, bailer, life jackets, oars etc. available and In good condition.
PROPELLER
1. Secure and free from weed.
2. Clear of bottom.
STEERING
1. Visual check on cables etc.
2. Full and free travel.
ENGINE
1. Throttle shut.
2. Check for full travel then move to mid gear
3. Drain cocks open.
4. Visual check of bolts, bearings etc., turning over by hand if possible.
BOILER
1. Fire bars and bricks clear and in place.
2. No sign of leaks.
3. Ashpan clear, door open.
4. Funnel, flues and tubes clear.
5. Sufficient fuel and feed water for journey.
6. Stop valve and blowdown shut.
7. Safety valve free.
8. Feed cocks open.
9. All gauge cocks to normal (vertical).
10. Test hand-pump, water in glass.

*** LIGHT UP ***

DEPARTURE
BOILER
1. Blow down water gauge:
- steam arm shut (horizontal),
- open drain briefly,
- return steam arm to normal,
- repeat for water arm,
- check all cocks returned to vertical - water level should bounce back to original level.
2. Water level, fire and pressure high.
3. Stop valve fully open.

ENGINE
1. Oil all round, fill and turn on lubricators.
2. Warm through slowly:
- open drain cocks,
- crack throttle open approx 1/4 turn
- rock valve gear until engine turns freely
3. With compounds:
- warm L. P. cyl. first with simpling valve open, then repeat with it closed.

*** CASTOFF ***

LEAVING BOAT
BOILER
Anticipate stop if possible:-
1. Raise water level to top of glass.
2. Bank up fire for short stay or burn out.
3. Shut draught and open firebox door slightly to prevent blowing off.
4. shut stop valve and feed valves.
ENGINE
1. Mid gear.
2. Drain cocks open.
3. Lubricators off.

MOORING
1. Ensure clear water under hull.
2. Warps secure and free enough to allow for tide and wash."

I am working on adaptation just at the moment.

Regards

Pete
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Re: Safety Protocol / Shut down Procedures

Post by Dhutch »

Doesnt give enough detail to do much of whats listed however, which i took to be the point of the thread.

Daniel
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Re: Safety Protocol / Shut down Procedures

Post by PeteThePen1 »

No, I would disagree.

The heading was 'safety protocol/shutdown procedures', so a generic checklist such as Pat's could form a useful basis for a boater to write his/her own. To ignore some of the items on the checklist could easily lead one into unsafe territory. The one you posted is excellent, but very focused on Emily Ann. To re-use it one would need to do some heavy editing, whereas Pat's list is, to my mind, an aide memoir that one could have to hand when writing the sort of thing you have done for one's own boat.

Of course, much depends upon how one tends to create documents and I imagine we all vary enormously, just like our boats.

Regards

Pete
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