Closer to a hull design

[Steamboat Mike]

Ken, something that may help in your trailer calculus is that with a steam launch on a trailer it is not necessary to have a trailer as long as the boat. This can save considerable trailer weight. I have an Elliot Bay which, as has been mentioned, is 23' 4" long. At Pat Spurlock's suggestion I got a 21' trailer. I was dubious, to say the least, but it worked out very well. The axles are 3500 pound capacity and after I put the larger 14" radial trailer tires and disc brakes on, it trails and stops beautifully. The overhang is of no consequence as most of the weight is the boiler that is supported by a cross member with a triple roller that is just ahead of the forward of two axles. Consider an adjustable trailer. Mine is a Load Rite that is manufactured nearby. Some trailers have the cross members welded in which has the advantage of great rigidity but makes weight distribution changes impossible. I moved the winch post as far forward as possible and shifted the axles to get the 7 to 10% tongue weight. With light tongue weight the trailer with boat was most squirrelly, properly balanced it is almost like it is not there at road speed. The overhang of the stern bothered me as it was almost 3' beyond the brake/tail lights so I made a 5' light beam that I lash onto the fantail for road travel. The LED lights are just at following driver eye level, most annoying, just the way I like them. Anyway, the 21' trailer is much lighter than the 23' trailer that was offered by the dealer. Check specs online of various trailer offerings before you see a dealer, most dealers have a very strong tendency to tell you that what they have in stock is just what you need. Who knew?? Don't even get into the overhang issue, they simply don't get it.
Hope this is helpful, best regards, Steamboat Mike

[marinesteam]

Mike

I was going by the manufacturers published recommendations. I had the same conversation with Pat a few years ago and apparently had forgotten until your reply.

That should help with the weight as I would be well within the load capacity of even a significantly smaller trailer and dropping a trailer size in the 26'-24' range will save about 500lb of trailer weight.

Right now, I'm in gut check mode, making sure that all adds up and makes sense. I don't want to put a lot of work finishing a hull design and possibly spending to have it checked by a naval architect just to find that can't build it because I don't have a vehicle to tow it with.

Right now, it's looking do-able as long as I go with a water tube boiler (so I don't need to build the hull ultra-light).

Thanks for the information, It always helps to see what's being done in the real world.

Ken

[farmerden]

Hi Ken One of my friends has a large steamer and a small pickup. His solution- He asked me to tow him!! Let's get the boat in the water and worry about getting the right sized vehicle later Lean on your friends-that's what they're there for And take them out in the boat-steamin' always better with a friend! Den

[fredrosse]

"Vitara's towing capacity at around two long tons 2645lbs (1200kg) though there is a range but most are significantly less. "

Some misunderstanding about "Tons"

One Long Ton = 2240 Pounds
One Short Ton = 2000 Pounds
One Metric Tonn = 1000 kilograms = 2205 Pounds

[marinesteam]

Meant one long ton (note around), was thinking about the two in two thousand pounds and that's what I typed. Oops!

Has anyone seen the 25' fantail that Beckmann has put on his fantail hull page http://www.steamboating.net/page44.html? It has nice lines like the Rose and Frolic hulls. I'm wondering who owns the one in the photo and if it's a scaled up Rose hull or new design.

Ken

[Lopez Mike]

I've stripped all of the lights off of my trailer (which, incidentally is three feet shorter than my boat). Lights submersed in water, especially salt water, die rapidly. Even supposedly water proof ones!

I have a removable light bar, also with LED lights, that is either on the boat when towing or on the trailer when moving it empty. Just like removable towing lights. The light bar even holds the license plate.

[barts]

I've stripped all of the lights off of my trailer (which, incidentally is three feet shorter than my boat). Lights submersed in water, especially salt water, die rapidly. Even supposedly water proof ones!

I have a removable light bar, also with LED lights, that is either on the boat when towing or on the trailer when moving it empty. Just like removable towing lights. The light bar even holds the license plate.

I've done exactly the same thing. Keeps everything working.

- Bart

[TahoeSteam]

Same here... I seem to recall John Noble being one of the early champions of that method, mounting lights on the transom of his "Ranel II"

In fact I think this is a picture one of you two (or your wives) took:



The cheap magnetic lights have since been replaced with nicer LED trailer lights.

[S. Weaver]

I don't want to put a lot of work finishing a hull design and possibly spending to have it checked by a naval architect just to find that can't build it because I don't have a vehicle to tow it with.

Ken, I'm with the bros. on this one - I don't have a vehicle that would remotely tow Iona. Build it, and some day the right vehicle will show up. Life is too short.

[Lopez Mike]

Yeah. This is like a bachelor building a house to suit a wife he hasn't met yet. Build the boat. A tow rig will come along.