DetroiTug wrote:Finally took it out for a few hours to test the new changes.
First thing out, the main feedpump was inoperable. I bled it out, pecked on the check valves, pulled it's relief valve a few times, it began working - temporarily...
...The new Economizer, was making all sorts of noises when the feedpump was trying to work, it was concluded that this was feedwater flash boiling on start up. (Good call on the relief valve Fred). What appeared to be happening when the feed pump was off, the economizer was boiling all the water out of the feed line back to the feedpump. I would have to bleed out the pump every time to get it pumping. So I decided to isolate the economizer coil, the little relief valve kept popping off. And- when the economizer was full of water and the feedpump working, it was making a clanging noise. So it looks as though, it needs to be supported better. When it was working, the line coming out was much hotter than the one coming out and no loss of boiler pressure was observed. With some tweaks - it will work.
The prop is coming off. The engine was just fighting too hard against it. It appeared to change everything, when the feedpump was running, it had to run for longer intervals due to the slower RPM. The fire didn't seem to burn as well, lower stack velocity with lower RPM. The boat seemed sluggish with the engine running at lower RPM, obviously not getting in to an RPM range where appreciable horsepower is attained. 50 PSI and 6.4 mph on the GPS, but the whole boat was shuddering under the load above this pressure. With the other prop, everything seemed much smoother.
Any ideas on the idle economizer - boiling the feedwater out of the pump situation? The clanging I can fix.
-Ron
The "clanging noises" is primarily due to water hammer in the looooong economizer coil. The best fix is to run the feed pump at about 2/3 engine speed and use a "ram/displacement" type pump (piston pumps seem to cause water hammer more than any other type). As to the "boiling the feedwater out of the pump situation", since the exchange of water from the economizer backwards to the feed pump is probably creating the boiling then it would seem the installation of a check valve on the input side of the economizer, but just after the "bypass valves" configuration, would correct this.
As to the propeller, get a copy of Dave Gerr's Propeller Handbook. You've got all the data for your hull and plant so you should be able to figure the prop out:
1. Figure your probable hull speed using his updated formula for hull speed: The formula is: V = 1.24*L^1.433 / D^0.311 where v is kts, L is feet and D is displacement in pounds.
2. Determine the pitch of your propeller using his pitch formula.
3. Calculate your engine HP at about 90% of max. rpms (or wherever the engine is happiest).
4. Calculate your diameter using his formulas and your pitch, HP, and rpms from the above.
OR
Read the article "A Logical Approximation of HP" by Evers Burtner in the Nov/Dec 2010 issue of
Steamboating Magazine - you'll get close to the same answer. If anyone wants to reprint it here, you have my permission as editor.