Many steam traction engines in my area have had their boilers replaced with modern welded construction, and most of them have had fake rivets added. In this case the fake rivet head is hollow, perhaps 3/4 inch diameter with a 3/16 diameter thru hole. The fake rivet is held against the boiler shell, and a quick MIG weld is made inside the fake rivet hole, filling it with weld wire. Strong attachment, with no weld showing on the fake rivet. Other methods may also be used that I am not aware of.
For a cold steel surface, sandblasted clean, epoxy would hold a fake rivet in place very reliably, unless you run along a dock column, popping them off one after another.
Fake anything is against my religion, as well as my engineering sensibilities, so I would recommend against it, use real rivets if you must, then you would have the real thing, and that is what you really want, Yes?
I built an addition to our 1693 house a few years ago. New double hung windows, with thermo-pane double glass, and fake mullions between the glass panes, cost about $300 each. I had to pay about $1500 per window to have them made with real mullions, single pane of glass, as no window company offers the old style at all.
Appropriate hullsize and prop for 25 HP engine
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- Full Steam Ahead
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- Location: Cathlamet, WA
Re: Appropriate hullsize and prop for 25 HP engine
Fred,
I was wondering where you are parking the buggy and storing the hay for the horse?
Dave
I was wondering where you are parking the buggy and storing the hay for the horse?

Dave