DetroiTug's Tug is going together

[DetroiTug]

Pat,

Picked up some of that today.

Thanks, Ron

[mtnman]

Pat,

Picked up some of that today.

Thanks, Ron

Another tip, don't get it on your clothes. It won't wash out and it will spread to other clothes in the washer and dryer! The missus won't be happy.

[artemis]

Fel-Pro C-5A, use it for every joint of metal and you'll never have trouble with disassembly again. 20 years working on rusty ships taught me that.

Sounds like the "Never Seize" I use out here in the State of Oregon. When you're done, you throw the wipeup rag away.

[dhic001]

Ron,
Regarding feed pumps. Kapanui had a belt driven hypro, and it works superbly. There can be a slight bit of water hammer,but that is due to a the relatively small delivery pipe. If your feed pump is noisey and has minimal snubbing, put a much larger snubber on it. Greenbank had major water hammer and check valve noises, but this summer Sean fitted a very large snubber (old fire extinguisher), and the result was an utter transformation. Not only did the feed and check valve noises dissappear, but most of the engine noises did the same. Our conclusion was that the shocks from the pump were carrying through the rest of the engine, and creating a lot of shaking and noise.
Hope that helps,
Daniel

[DetroiTug]

Dan,

I've decided to go ahead and mount the Hypro which I am doing today, it will be chain driven. Someone came by and had a good idea same as on the forum here a few weeks ago, use both the Hypro and the old single ram which works, but not as well more than likely. Will wind up with two engine driven feed pumps plumbed in parallel and each can be isolated from the other. Some wild mounting brackets going on.

It takes a season of running to really determine what is needed, and yes, going to add a much larger snubber or shock arrester.

Thanks, Ron

[Lopez Mike]

I have a chain driven reciprocating pump now and I dislike the growling of the chain and sprockets. It's way over sized chain (3/4") so that might be the problem.

When I change over to a small (5320) Hypro, I plan to try direct drive first and see if it can deliver enough. If not, I plan to use belt drive step up.

One of the things I like best about steam power is the relative silence. Any sort of clicking, rattling and such irritates me and I try to design around it.

[barts]

My hypro was direct driven last year; I'm switching to chain drive because I don't want to hang the hypro off the end of the (small) crankshaft, and it was too hard to mount it aligned correctly for use with a Lovejoy coupling - so my coupling tended to squeak, which meant I kept hitting it with silicone spray to quiet it down.

I'll use 20 tooth sprockets and #35 chain; this should be quiet. It also moves the hypro a bit closer to the engine, which is handy.

I also took the time while the engine is out of the boat to flatten the base of the mounting surfaces on the engine; they'd never been milled since 1893 or so when it was built, and were both bowed and had rocker relative to each other. I also took the endmill to the weldment that forms the angled mounting plate and oil catchment; the engine and mount now fit very nicely together.

- Bart

[DetroiTug]

Mike,

Yes, 3/4" chain is a bit excessive.

This is a Hypro 5330C 3GPM @ 500 psi. Using #35 chain, 40 tooth on crank and 20 tooth on the pump. It's mounted and turning, doesn't seem too noisy. My buddy has the same set up on his boat, seems pretty quiet. On engine noise, a guy told me the other day "if they aren't clackin', they aren't runnin' " With the engine on the bench, I was able to fix a few clicks, should be a lot quieter this year. Of course a steel hull is like a giant speaker, they aren't too quiet, drop a wrench and it's very loud.

I put a new regulator on the alternator, still not charging at 1200 rpm (300 crankshaft rpm), at 2000 rpm (500 rpm) it does. This regulator is not a one wire. I think there is a way to make it charge at lower RPM's.

-Ron

[DetroiTug]

Here is a pic of the pump installed over the old one. It actually went pretty smooth and all fasteners are accessible.



Here is a video of it spinning, it's really very quiet.



-Ron

[fredrosse]

From a previous post, it appears that higher RPM will be required:

Looking up tech data for a marine 12 Volt alternator (Balmar 6 Series, with internal voltage regulation built-in, the smallest of their marine line) gives the following data:
Rated output: 70 Amps at 14.1 Volts.
Operating speed range: 1,320 - 15,000 RPM
About 2000 RPM is needed to get the alternator into reasonable efficiency, with an output of 50 - 60 Amps.
50 Amps x 14 Volts = 700 Watts Output
Alternator Efficiency is in the general vicinity of 50 % - 60%, based on what I could find for similar machines, although the Balmar datasheet does not specify this number.
700 Watts Output at 60% efficiency = 1167 Watts Shaft power Input = 1.56 Horsepower Alternator Shaft Input Required. To that one must consider the efficiency of the drive system from the Engine to the Alternator Shaft, probably 90% or better with a proper serpentine belt drive, and a ratio of 8:1 or similar, then engine horsepower required is 1.75 Horsepower, a healthy number for our small launch engines.

The smallest automotive alternators I have seen put out 30 Amps, these would require about half the input engine power, and would probably require a somewhat higher running speed.