Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
Hi Ken,
Just a thought regarding placement of the reversing lever, always worth considering where you are going to be in the boat when operating that lever. You really need to be able to have the reversing lever in one hand, and the throttle in the other hand. Also worth bearing in mind the ability to operate the boat single handed, so don't put the lever too far away from the wheel. The Simpson Strickland engine on Kapanui originally had the reversing lever at the LP end, its now at the HP end next to the throttle and a step away from the wheel. As a result, Kapanui can be operated and berthed singled handed, and she's 37 feet long and 6 tons.
Daniel
Just a thought regarding placement of the reversing lever, always worth considering where you are going to be in the boat when operating that lever. You really need to be able to have the reversing lever in one hand, and the throttle in the other hand. Also worth bearing in mind the ability to operate the boat single handed, so don't put the lever too far away from the wheel. The Simpson Strickland engine on Kapanui originally had the reversing lever at the LP end, its now at the HP end next to the throttle and a step away from the wheel. As a result, Kapanui can be operated and berthed singled handed, and she's 37 feet long and 6 tons.
Daniel
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Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
My experience has been that when reversing the engine in close quarters, there is no time for fooling around with any complicated stuff. I find the loco type to work best for me.
As to having continually adjustable cutoff, I use full advance at dead slow and only one notch for the rest of the time in forward motion. I have messed about a fair bit with the adjustment when cruising at various speeds and can't detect any effect on performance. So I have only three notches. Full reverse, full forward and normal forward.
Of course I'm one of those infidels who doesn't care to mess with the machinery more than needed. Just want to sit back and watch for girls on the dock. Toot the whistle and take them for rides.
Mike
As to having continually adjustable cutoff, I use full advance at dead slow and only one notch for the rest of the time in forward motion. I have messed about a fair bit with the adjustment when cruising at various speeds and can't detect any effect on performance. So I have only three notches. Full reverse, full forward and normal forward.
Of course I'm one of those infidels who doesn't care to mess with the machinery more than needed. Just want to sit back and watch for girls on the dock. Toot the whistle and take them for rides.
Mike
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Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
Ken,
This has worked very well. Just a carriage bolt coming through the back. And I could have spent more than ten minutes on that control lever

-Ron
This has worked very well. Just a carriage bolt coming through the back. And I could have spent more than ten minutes on that control lever


-Ron
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Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
I've been looking at the side lever idea, and the thought of skinned knees or brused shins keeps comming to mind!
dave
dave
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Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
It would seem to me that if there is any possibility of 'single-man' working then something simple, but especially quick, is essential. Preferably even one-handed; like a twist to release, move, twist to hold, style. Close-quarter working could then be done on fixed, low, throttle setting and controlled by the reverser.
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Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
I recently thought of a handle that could be squeezed to release, like mirroring a catch on a bar clamp, one spring holding in each direction. I'm not sure how to describe it though.
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Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
It must be quick to use and be something that can be worked with either hand. With steam valve, reversing lever and wheel there is enough to do when manoeuvring in a tight space. Tenacity has a reversing lever with release like an old fashioned handbrake. As you squeeze the release it lifts a spring loaded block out of a retaining notch on the edge of the quadrant allowing the reverse lever to be moved and the block to be dropped into another notch. I have about four notches going ahead and only one for astern and that is full. The valve gear is Stevenson's (Lowe's) and the engine a compound with cranks at 90 deg.
Shamrock, a double simple with cranks at 90 deg, has a lever with pinch screw sliding on a straight rod. This works just as well and you don't have to use the screw unless you want to link up because the Marshall single eccentric gear does not load the lever enough to move it.
Shamrock, a double simple with cranks at 90 deg, has a lever with pinch screw sliding on a straight rod. This works just as well and you don't have to use the screw unless you want to link up because the Marshall single eccentric gear does not load the lever enough to move it.
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Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
So I seem to be missing something here. This sounds to me like a locomotive reversing lever which is what I have now. And I find it very convenient.
The one on Tenacity, I mean.
Mike
The one on Tenacity, I mean.
Mike
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Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
A couple of comments in response to several in previous posts,
Due to the angle of the model the lever arm looks like it sticks out a lot more than it really will. The handle will just clear the front column and will not be much (if at all) beyond the receiver on the front of the cylinder block. Depending on where I end up putting the helm the reverser may be easier to reach than the throttle valve (if the helm is placed central behind the engine). The reach will be small and manageable.
I like simple as long as it's properly functional. Trying to avoid a loco style release. A twist to loosen or grip would be within the realm of simple. I'm leaning toward a friction clamp with a lever to lock. This should hold the lever in place but still allowing one to change the link position on demand using one hand. I still need to work out the clutch and lock mechanism, but haven't had much spare time for such endeavors.
Cheers
Ken
Due to the angle of the model the lever arm looks like it sticks out a lot more than it really will. The handle will just clear the front column and will not be much (if at all) beyond the receiver on the front of the cylinder block. Depending on where I end up putting the helm the reverser may be easier to reach than the throttle valve (if the helm is placed central behind the engine). The reach will be small and manageable.
I like simple as long as it's properly functional. Trying to avoid a loco style release. A twist to loosen or grip would be within the realm of simple. I'm leaning toward a friction clamp with a lever to lock. This should hold the lever in place but still allowing one to change the link position on demand using one hand. I still need to work out the clutch and lock mechanism, but haven't had much spare time for such endeavors.
Cheers
Ken
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Re: Reversing lever - loco style or clamp & rod
So why are you trying to avoid a loco style reversing lever? Quick and easy to build and use.
Mike
Mike
If you think you are too small to make a difference, try sleeping with a mosquito.
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